Wednesday, July 30, 2008

Schizophrenic Olympics Days



Many have asked - what is really going on over in Beijing? I really have no idea as we all try to wade through the propaganda, mud slinging (from ALL media sources!), and absolute loss of perspective that seems to have taken hold with these games.

To convey my own perspective on these 2008 Olympic Games, In coming weeks I will try to slice through this mud-pie with doses of my own experiences here Beijing. Old fashion on-the-ground blogging - yes!

On daily life in Beijing
to sum up - Beijing is crazy and overwhelmed with Olympics crazed activity with a strong dose of authoritarianism and paranoia thrown in. I have heard Olympics are always a pain for local people, and that is certainly true here as life is getting very inconvenient in terms of transportation, restrictions on businesses, and heightened security.

I work adjacent to the Olympic Village and across the street from the International Broadcast Center, so one can imagine how busy it is around here, and very secure! However, our research team is undaunted and everyone is working with out interruption. We have new magnetized name badges, but other than that, us researchers can't be bothered.

On the media

I see the media situation as more complex than is being reported. For one thing, China is royally making an ass of itself by pissing the media off to the extent that the oppressive lack of freedom of press has become the only story they find worth reporting. But I really see another facet of the story that adds complexity that goes back to the last year of perception, within China, that western media continues to bash China and impose great bias on all stories. The Chinese see this as sort of "sour grapes" reporting as the US economy is tanking and they see such bias as displaced jealousy over China continuing to thrive. And so now with the Olympics, China has control and is punishing the western press by not letting them access to anything. Its a continuation of the anger here over press coverage throughout 2008.

On Schizophrenia

This comment pertains to the ongoing confusion over conceptions of hospitality.

What is different here than in other Olympics Cities perhaps is how the Olympics organizers are also making life incredibly difficult for foreigners and visitors. there are 1000s of neighborhoods guards posted watching your every move, hotels are bugged, and your every move is being watched. And over 1/2 of my friends were deported on July 1 with a sweeping visa policy that really screwed up a lot of people's lives.

Yes, it is nice to deploy 20,000 "volunteers" to help visitors navigate the games, the city etc.

No, it is not nice to chase after foreigners on the street to ask them if that want to talk in English.

Yes, its nice to see "welcome to Beijing" signs, topiary, and broadcasts everyone in the beautified Beijing.

No, its not nice to have a throng of guards, volunteers, and others descend upon you every time a foreigner gets near an Olympic site, Tiananmen Square, etc and start to yell at you not to get too close.

Yes, its nice that the municipal government published 8 "don't asks" to help people know how to chat with foreigners:

Beijing's 2008 Olympics "Eight Don't Ask Questions" include the following:

Don't ask about income or expenses.

Don't ask about age.

Don't ask about love, life, or marriage.

Don't ask about health.

Don't ask about someone's home or address.

Don't ask about personal experience.

Don't ask about religious beliefs or political views.

Don't ask what someone does.

But again, no, we aren't fooled by face-value hospitality when the city continues to send messages around warning of highly suspicious foreigners. As long as eye balls are constantly watching our every move as if every blondie is the next shoe bomber, I can't say I feel especially welcomed.

Wednesday, July 23, 2008

I heart hong kong










Aside from the lovely break from the Olympics frenzy of Beijing, my trip to Hong Kong was fascinating from so many different perspectives.

The conference was excellent and I got to know a huge number of Chinese students and professors from throughout the Pearl River Delta.

As the conference was held in Hong Kong, students felt more comfortable to express themselves freely and not did not practice the self-censorship that makes many student discussions so formulaic. We had many "cafe sessions" in small groups to discuss issues of the environment, health, and development. The students were awesome and my group, the water pollution group even won a prize (see our photo!).

Following the conference I met with a colleague on our Green Supply Chain project with the Institute of Public and Environmental Affairs and a had great, and again, CANDID, discussion. I must have been craving direct and blunt conversation, as it is a rare treat to encounter on the mainland. This is not to say I do not understand the reasons for more careful and closed discussion on the mainland. In fact I understand them all too clearly and monitor my own words and opinions at all times. The stakes for being too openly expressive are high given the political and nationalistic climate in Beijing / China. For me, my risks do not compare to those of normal Chinese citizens. The worst consequence I would face would be be being asked to leave, and thereby jeopardize my academic progress and future research opportunities. For the Chinese, they risk their jobs and future livelihoods, reputations to their family, and in the worst case, detention in the Chinese penal system which is full of political dissidents.

Being in Hong Kong for only one week provided a wonderful glimpse of this fascinating east-meets-west culture. Imbued with the British legacies of etiquette, bi-lingual culture, and rampant capitalism, yet fully Chinese as 95% of the inhabitants are Chinese. In fact, Hong Kong at times feels more Chinese than China as the people are free to worship traditional gods and ancestors, speak openly regarding political issues, and have found great success as entrepreneurs under the last 99 years of market-based economy.

During my time in Hong Kong I went to the movies! Hung out at Page One bookstore! Shopped! and Toured the outer Islands which are tropical and beautiful with interesting markets and sea-side towns. It was a great trip, and thankfully, I crossed back over the Hong Kong - Shenzhen border with no problems, and flew home to Beijing late Sunday.

To note, Hong Kong Cinema is fantastic - Hong Kong Movie Stars: Tony Leung, Jackie Chan, the Hui Brothers, Bruce Lee, Chow Yun-fat, Cherie Chung and Stephen Chow.

As for the current Olympics craziness here in Beijing, its NUTS! And there is much to show and tell. Do stay tuned for another posting when I get a moment to digest all that is happening around me!






Friday, July 18, 2008

Live from Hong Kong

After a 22 hour train ride from Beijing to Shenzhen, and an interesting by-foot crossing of the China PRC - Hong Kong SAR border, I arrived in beautiful Hong Kong last Monday.

My official purpose was to attend a conference entitled "Environment, Health and Harmony" hosted by the Hong Kong America center at Chinese University of Hong Kong School of Public Health. it was a terrific conference, attended by over 95 students from throughout the Pearl river Delta (Hong Kong, Shenzhen, Macau, Xiamen, Guangzhou....). Pictures will follow in later postings.

Now I am staying in downtown Hong Kong and am overwhelmed by this breathtaking and bustling city. A true crossroads of east-meets-west. It is a truly cosmopolitan city and full of malls, malls, and more malls. As I have been luxuriating at my techotel, it has been awesome to taste the air of enencumbered speech, enjoy potable tap water, and take in all of the sino-european flavor of the city.

My impressions are many and I hope to update again soon with more photos and words. I did not bring my lap top in order to break the leash that computer had to me! It has been nice to not be staring and typing every day! ok, must be off to enjoy more of the sights on this lovely friday evening. cheers~

Wednesday, July 2, 2008

China's Water Crisis - A Report from Singapore

My friend & fellow Fulbrighter Julian updates his blog from his home, and tropical paradise, Singapore, to celebrate Singapore Water Week. Look for my quotes in the management section.


Green Leap Forward